Cable Size & Voltage Drop Calculator

Pick a cable thick enough for the current it carries and for the distance it has to travel. Capacity does not care how long the run is, but the voltage lost along the way is nothing but length - which is why long runs are almost always sized by the drop.

How to use it

Sizes are tried from the smallest upwards and the first that survives both tests is the one offered.

  1. Say what the load is and how far away The load can go in as amps, watts or kilowatts. The length is the one-way distance from the board to the equipment — the sum already counts the return trip.
  2. Describe where the cable actually runs A cable clipped to a joist in open air carries far more than the same cable buried in loft insulation. This is the setting that changes the answer most, so it is worth being honest about the worst bit of the run.
  3. Read which test decided it On a short run the answer comes from how much current the cable can carry. On a long one it comes from voltage drop, and the tool tells you what size you would have used if the run had been shorter.
Full instructions
In depth

Picking the right cable before the walls go up

How the two tests that decide a cable size actually work, what the controls on the page do, why a long run almost always needs a bigger cable than the load alone would suggest, and a walked-through example with real numbers.

Screenshot: Two tests, and the second one is the one people forget
Two tests, and the second one is the one people forget as it appears when the page opens.

Two tests, not one

A cable has to pass two separate checks before it can be used. The first is current capacity: can the copper carry the amps without getting dangerously hot? The second is voltage drop: does enough voltage still arrive at the far end? Short runs are nearly always decided by the first test. Long runs are nearly always decided by the second.

Most people only think about the first one. They look up how many amps a cable can handle, see that it covers their load, and stop there. That is fine when the socket is three metres from the board. When it is thirty metres away, the resistance of all that copper starts to matter, and the voltage at the far end can sag below what the regulations allow.

The calculator works through every standard cable size in order, from the smallest upward. For each one it checks both tests, applying the corrections for heat and grouping along the way. The smallest size that passes both is the answer, and it tells you which of the two tests was the one that decided it.

Telling it about the load

The load can go in as amps, watts or kilowatts. If you give it watts or kilowatts it works the current out using the voltage and, for alternating current, the power factor. A pure resistive load like a heater has a power factor of 1. A motor or older fluorescent fitting is closer to 0.85. If you are not sure, leave it at 1 and the result will be slightly on the safe side.

The supply can be single phase, three phase balanced, or direct current. Single phase is the normal domestic circuit. Three phase covers commercial feeds and some workshop machines. Direct current is for solar panels, battery banks and vehicle wiring. The voltage changes the current for a given wattage, so it matters.

Why the run length changes the answer

Copper is a very good conductor, but it is not perfect. Every metre of cable has a small resistance, and the current flowing through that resistance turns a small amount of power into heat. That heat is the voltage that goes missing.

The trick is that current capacity has nothing to do with length. A cable that can carry 32 amps when it is one metre long can carry 32 amps when it is a hundred metres long. But the voltage that reaches the far end drops with every extra metre. Double the distance and you double the drop.

The run length you enter is the one-way distance from the consumer unit to the equipment. The calculator doubles it internally, because current has to travel there and back. A 25 metre run means 50 metres of conductor in the circuit.

Installation method and why it matters so much

A cable clipped to a joist in open air can shed its heat freely. The same cable buried in loft insulation cannot. The insulation acts like a blanket, trapping the heat and forcing the cable to run hotter. A hotter cable can carry less current safely.

On the metric side the choices cover twin and earth cable in various situations, from clipped directly to a surface down to wrapped in insulation inside a stud wall. On the AWG side the temperature column picks the insulation rating, and the conductor choice switches between copper and aluminium. Aluminium carries less current per unit area but is lighter and cheaper, which is why it appears in larger feeder cables.

This setting moves the answer more than almost anything else on the page. Be honest about the worst part of the run. If most of the cable is clipped to a joist but one section passes through insulation, use the insulated setting for the whole thing. The cable does not know where the insulation ends.

The corrections for heat and grouping

The published capacity figures assume the air around the cable is at 30 degrees and that the cable is on its own. When either of those is not true, the capacity has to be reduced.

If six circuits are bundled together in one piece of conduit, each one can carry a good deal less than it could alone, because they are all warming each other up. The grouping correction can take the capacity down to barely half. It is the correction people skip most often, and it is the one that causes the most trouble in trunking that looked perfectly fine on paper.

The ambient temperature field adjusts for rooms that are hotter or cooler than the 30 degree baseline. A boiler room at 40 degrees reduces the capacity noticeably. An unheated garage in winter is a little kinder. Both corrections are applied before the current capacity test, so the number the cable has to beat is lower than the figure printed on the reel.

Walking through a real example

A shower rated at 9.5 kilowatts on a 230 volt single phase supply, with the cable run 18 metres from the consumer unit. The cable will be twin and earth clipped directly to the joists, on its own, in an ambient temperature of 30 degrees. The voltage drop allowed is set to 3 per cent.

The current works out to about 41 amps. At that load and that distance, 6 square millimetres can carry the current but fails on voltage drop. The answer comes back as 10 square millimetres, and the page says it was the drop that decided it. If the same shower were only 5 metres from the board, 6 square millimetres would pass both tests.

That gap between 6 and 10 is not a safety margin being generous. It is the resistance of 36 metres of copper refusing to be ignored. And the volts that went missing would have turned into heat in the floor void, every hour the shower was running, paid for at the same rate as the hot water.

Metric tables and AWG tables

The page offers two complete sets of cable data. The metric set uses square millimetre sizes and the BS 7671 Appendix 4 tables, which are the UK and most of Europe. The AWG set uses American Wire Gauge sizes and NEC Table 310.16, which is the United States and Canada.

Switching between them changes not just the sizes but the way the installation is described. The metric side has installation methods built around specific cable types. The AWG side has a temperature column and a conductor material choice instead, because the NEC tables are laid out differently.

One trap on the AWG side: the 75 degree column says 25 amps for 12 gauge copper, but the code does not allow you to protect it above 20. That small-conductor rule applies to 14, 12 and 10 gauge, and the calculator enforces it automatically so the answer stays honest.

What this does not replace

This is a planning aid. It tells you roughly what cable to buy and it helps you understand a quote from an electrician. It is not the wiring regulations and it cannot inspect your installation.

A real circuit also has to satisfy the protective device, the earth fault loop impedance, the disconnection time and the physical way everything is fixed in place. In most countries only a qualified and registered electrician can certify that work, and it is against the law for anyone else to do so. The cable size is just one line on a much longer list.

Use the number to have a more informed conversation with the person doing the work, not to skip that conversation entirely. If the answer surprises you, that is often a sign the run is longer than you thought or the installation conditions are tougher than you assumed.

Common missteps and how to avoid them

  • Using the open-air capacity for a cable that passes through insulation, even briefly. The cable gets as hot as its worst section.
  • Forgetting to count grouped circuits. Three cables touching in a channel all derate each other.
  • Setting the load in watts but forgetting to lower the power factor for a motor. The current will be higher than expected.
  • Entering the total cable length instead of the one-way run. The calculator already doubles it.
  • Treating the percentage drop as trivial. A 3 per cent drop on 230 volts is about 7 volts, which is real power wasted as heat every hour the load runs.
  • Comparing metric and AWG figures side by side without accounting for the different table structures. The two systems are not direct equivalents.

Everything stays on your device

Every calculation runs inside your browser. The numbers you type are not sent to a server, not stored in a database, and not visible to anyone else. You can disconnect from the network, reload the page, and it still works exactly the same way, because there was never anything on the other end to begin with.

Help

Two tests, and the second one is the one people forget

Sizes are tried from the smallest upwards and the first that survives both tests is the one offered. The current test allows for how warm the space is and how many cables are bunched together, both of which cut what a cable can carry. The answer names which of the two tests decided it, so you can see whether a shorter run would let you drop a size.

Say what the load is and how far away

The load can go in as amps, watts or kilowatts. The length is the one-way distance from the board to the equipment — the sum already counts the return trip.

Describe where the cable actually runs

A cable clipped to a joist in open air carries far more than the same cable buried in loft insulation. This is the setting that changes the answer most, so it is worth being honest about the worst bit of the run.

Read which test decided it

On a short run the answer comes from how much current the cable can carry. On a long one it comes from voltage drop, and the tool tells you what size you would have used if the run had been shorter.

A cable that is warm is a cable losing money

Voltage drop is not just a number on a certificate. The volts that go missing turn into heat in the wall, every hour the load is on. A 5 per cent drop on a shower circuit is a few hundred watts of heating in the floor void, paid for at the same rate as the shower. Going one size up often pays for itself, and it costs almost nothing to do at first fix and a fortune to do later.

Good to know

This is a planning aid, not the rules

The figures come from the published cable tables in BS 7671 and the NEC, and they cover the cable and nothing else. A real circuit also has to satisfy the protective device, the earth fault loop, the disconnection time and the way it is installed. Only a qualified electrician can sign for that, and in most places it is against the law for anyone else to.

Where the numbers come from

The square-millimetre capacities are the BS 7671 Appendix 4 tables for cable insulated to 70 degrees, and the resistances are the conductor tables in BS EN 60228. The AWG side is Table 310.16 of the National Electrical Code with the Chapter 9 resistance table. Nothing here is made up or averaged.

Twelve gauge is not a 25-amp cable

The 75-degree column really does say 25 amps for 12 AWG copper, and you still may not protect it above 20. That is the small-conductor rule, and it applies to 14, 12 and 10 gauge whatever the capacity works out to. The cap is applied here automatically.

Bundled cables get hot together

Six circuits in one conduit each carry a little over half what one alone would. It is the correction people skip, and it is the one that starts fires in trunking that looked fine on paper.

Nothing about resistance is guessed

The drop is worked out from published conductor resistances at the working temperature, not from the nominal size. That is why the answers land on the same millivolts per amp per metre the regulations print.

Common questions

What size cable do I need for a 32 amp circuit?
It depends entirely on how far it goes and how it is run. Clipped in open air over a short run, 4 square millimetres is usually enough; buried in loft insulation over thirty metres it can be 10. Put your own run in for the answer.
How do I work out voltage drop?
Multiply the current by the resistance of the cable there and back. That is what this does, using published conductor resistances at the temperature the cable actually runs at.
How much voltage drop is allowed?
In the UK, 3 per cent for lighting and 5 per cent for everything else, and that is a requirement. In the United States 3 per cent on a branch circuit is a recommendation rather than a rule, but it is the figure the trade works to.
Why does a long run need a bigger cable than the load suggests?
Because how much current a cable can carry has nothing to do with its length, and voltage drop is nothing but length. Double the distance and you double the volts lost, so past a certain point the cable is chosen by the run rather than by the load.
Can I use this instead of getting an electrician?
No. It works out roughly what to buy and helps you understand a quote. It is not the wiring regulations and it cannot inspect your installation.
Is anything I type sent anywhere?
No. Every sum runs in your browser and nothing leaves the device.