Skip Size & Waste Volume Calculator

A skip runs out of two things, room and weight, and heavy waste runs out of weight first. List what you are throwing away and this tells you which one stops you, and which size actually holds the lot.

How to use it

Waste is listed item by item, and each kind carries its own weight for its size, which is how a small pile of rubble and a large pile of timber end up needing different skips.

  1. Count what is going out Work down the panel and put a number against everything you are throwing away. Bags, furniture, kitchen units, rubble, turf. Anything you leave at zero is ignored.
  2. Say whether it will be taken apart A whole wardrobe is mostly air. Ticking the box takes about two fifths off the bulky furniture, which is often the difference between two skip sizes and costs nothing but an hour with a screwdriver.
  3. Enter the one price you were quoted Pick the size the quote was for and type the price. Every other size is scaled around it, because skip prices vary far more by area than by size and a built-in price list would be wrong everywhere.
Full instructions
In depth

Choosing a skip when nobody tells you the rules

Skips are sold in a unit almost nobody can picture, hired from a trade that assumes you already know how it works, and governed by two limits at once — how much fits and how much the lorry can lift. Most of the disappointment around skip hire comes from meeting the second limit without knowing it existed. This guide covers what the sizes actually mean, why heavy waste behaves completely differently from light waste, what will and will not be taken away, and how skips compare with the other ways of clearing a house or a building job.

Cubic yards, and why they mislead

A skip is sold by its capacity in cubic yards. That is a genuine measurement, but it is a poor guide to what a skip will hold, for a reason nobody mentions when they quote it: the capacity is measured to the rim, and a skip must be loaded level.

Anything heaped above the top edge cannot legally travel on the road. The driver's options when they arrive at an overfilled skip are to pull the excess off into your driveway or to leave the skip where it is, and neither of those makes for a good morning. In practice you can fill to just below the rim, and the sloping sides on most skips mean the usable volume is a little under the stated one anyway.

It follows that a small overshoot is expensive in a way that a small undershoot is not. Leftover waste after a skip goes means either a second hire, at full delivery and collection cost, or a series of car journeys. Space you did not use costs nothing at all.

The second limit: what the lorry can lift

Every skip lorry picks up its load with a hydraulic arm, and that arm has a limit. So does the vehicle's axle weight, which is a matter of law rather than engineering. Together they cap how heavy a loaded skip may be, and that cap is nothing like proportional to the size of the box.

This is why a ten, twelve and fourteen yard skip can all share roughly the same weight limit. Going up a size on a heavy load buys you space you are not allowed to fill. It is also why no yard will put soil, rubble or concrete in a large skip at any price: beyond roughly eight cubic yards of dense material the lift simply cannot be made, and no amount of negotiation changes physics.

Working out which limit binds is therefore the first useful question, and it is settled by density. A cubic metre of loose soil weighs somewhere over a tonne. A cubic metre of sofa weighs perhaps eighty kilograms. That is a factor of more than fifteen between two things that occupy identical space, and it is why counting bags tells you nothing on its own.

What the common sizes are for

Mini skips of two to three cubic yards are the ones that fit on a driveway without dominating it. They suit a bathroom strip-out, a small garden clearance or a single room's worth of rubbish, and because they are small they are the sensible choice for heavy material.

The four yard midi is the largest that still fits comfortably beside a car on most drives. Six and eight yard builders skips are the trade default: the eight is the largest that will be accepted with soil or hardcore in it, which makes it the workhorse of any job involving digging.

Above that, the ten to sixteen yard maxi skips are light-waste containers. They are big boxes for bulky, low-density material — furniture, packaging, insulation, garden clearance. Roll-on containers of twenty or forty yards are site equipment; they are dragged onto the lorry rather than lifted, need a lorry length of clear straight access to drop, and are rarely sensible outside a commercial job.

Things that cannot go in, and why

Fridges and freezers are refused everywhere. The refrigerant has to be recovered under hazardous waste rules before the shell can be scrapped, which is a specialist process, and a fridge found in a mixed load contaminates the whole thing. Household waste sites take them free.

Plasterboard is the one that catches people out most, because it looks like ordinary building rubbish. Buried in mixed landfill, gypsum reacts to produce hydrogen sulphide, which is both dangerous and memorably unpleasant, and it has been banned from mixed disposal for years. Most yards will supply a separate bag or a dedicated container for it, often at no extra cost if you ask in advance.

Electrical goods, tyres, paint, oil, solvents, fuel, gas bottles and batteries are all refused, each for its own reason, and all have their own routes. Asbestos deserves a paragraph of its own: never break it up, never put it in a skip, and if there is any chance that an old garage roof, a textured ceiling or a boarded flue contains it, have it tested before anything is touched.

The reason to check before the skip arrives rather than after is money. A single banned item found on the sorting line can get the entire load reclassified, and the charge for that is not small.

Loading it properly is worth a size

How a skip is filled makes a genuine difference, and the technique is not obvious. Heavy, flat material goes in first, along the bottom. Boards, doors and panels go flat rather than propped. Bulky soft items go last, on top, where they can be pressed down.

The largest single saving is taking furniture apart. A wardrobe put in whole occupies its entire outside volume and nothing else can share the space; dismantled, it is a stack of flat boards taking perhaps a third of that. An hour with a screwdriver routinely saves an entire skip size, which is the best hourly rate available on the whole job.

Filling gaps as you go matters more than it sounds, too. Most of a badly loaded skip is air between awkward objects. Bags of small rubbish are ideal for pushing into those gaps, and they compress as the load settles.

Permits, access and where it stands

A skip on your own driveway or land needs no permission. A skip on a public road almost always does, and the permit is applied for by the hire company rather than by you. Lead times vary from same-day to a fortnight depending on the council, so it is the thing to ask about first if there is no off-road space.

Permits usually come with conditions: lights or reflective markings at night, a limit on how many days it may stand, and sometimes restrictions on parking bays. Those conditions are the hire company's responsibility to explain and yours to comply with.

Access is worth thinking about before booking. The lorry needs to get alongside where the skip will sit, with clearance overhead for the arm, and it needs room to reverse. Overhanging trees, low cables, narrow gates and soft ground have all defeated deliveries that looked fine on a map.

The alternatives, and where each one wins

A clearance firm — the man-and-van model — prices by the volume they take away and does the carrying. That last part is the whole difference. If the waste is a three-piece suite on the second floor of a building with no lift, the labour is the job and a skip does not help with it. If the waste is already outside and you have a week to fill a container at your own pace, a skip is usually cheaper per unit.

Your own vehicle and a household waste site is free or nearly free in most places, and it wins decisively on small jobs. It loses the moment the number of trips climbs, and the crossover is lower than people expect: somewhere around six loads, most people conclude that their weekend is worth more.

For a large excavation, neither a skip nor a van is right. A grab lorry, which reaches over a wall with an arm and lifts loose material straight off the ground, or a tipper working with a digger, will move in one visit what would take a fleet of skips. Muck-away is a different trade and worth pricing separately.

Getting a quote you can compare

Skip prices vary far more by area than by size, because the dominant cost is not the container but the haulage and the gate fee at the transfer station. Two towns thirty miles apart can differ by half for an identical skip. That makes national price tables useless and local quotes essential.

When you ring round, ask four things: the price including delivery and collection, the weight limit, how many days it may stay, and whether that price is for mixed waste. A quote that turns out to be for a fixed hire period of three days, or that assumes light waste only, is not comparable with one that is not.

Ask about plasterboard separately, and about anything else on the refused list. A yard that answers those questions clearly is usually one that will collect on time as well.

What an estimate can and cannot tell you

Any calculation of this kind rests on typical figures for typical objects, and real objects vary enormously. A flat-pack wardrobe and a Victorian one occupy similar space and differ threefold in weight. Soil that has been dug and left in the rain is heavier than the same soil dry.

So the sensible use of an estimate is to answer the questions that are robust to that variation: whether space or weight is the binding limit, roughly which size to book, and whether a skip is even the right approach. Those answers rarely change when the individual numbers move a little.

What it cannot do is guarantee a fit. If a job comes out close to a size boundary, going one size up is nearly always cheaper than the second skip you will otherwise need, because the second skip costs its full haulage again while a larger container costs only a little more disposal. That asymmetry is the single most useful thing to remember when booking.

Help

Which skip, and why

Waste is listed item by item, and each kind carries its own weight for its size, which is how a small pile of rubble and a large pile of timber end up needing different skips. The total comes back in cubic metres, in cubic yards and in kilograms, with the size that holds it named alongside whichever limit you reach first.

Count what is going out

Work down the panel and put a number against everything you are throwing away. Bags, furniture, kitchen units, rubble, turf. Anything you leave at zero is ignored.

Say whether it will be taken apart

A whole wardrobe is mostly air. Ticking the box takes about two fifths off the bulky furniture, which is often the difference between two skip sizes and costs nothing but an hour with a screwdriver.

Enter the one price you were quoted

Pick the size the quote was for and type the price. Every other size is scaled around it, because skip prices vary far more by area than by size and a built-in price list would be wrong everywhere.

Read which limit bites

The table shows every size with the volume you can actually use and the lorry's weight limit. The “runs out on” column says whether space or weight is what stops you, which is the whole question with heavy waste.

Check the alternatives

A clearance firm charges by the yard and does the carrying; your own car is free but takes trips. Both are priced beside the skip so you can see where the crossover is.

Save or print it

There is a text file and an image on the result, a spreadsheet button in the panel, and a print button that lays out the tables without the controls.

Typical figures, not measurements

Item volumes and weights are typical values for typical things, and a heavy old oak wardrobe is nothing like a flat-pack one. Skip capacities are the sizes the trade usually sells and lifting limits vary between operators. Use this to choose a size with confidence, then confirm the limit and what the yard accepts before you book.

Good to know

Soil and rubble stop at eight yards

Not because of the price but because a loaded skip has to be lifted onto the lorry, and beyond about eight cubic yards of dense material that is past what the arm can do. A yard will refuse it whatever you offer to pay.

A bigger skip does not carry more weight

Ten, twelve and fourteen yard skips often share the same lifting limit. If your load is weight-limited, going up a size buys you empty space you cannot use.

Level load or it does not go

Anything heaped above the rim cannot legally be carried on the road, so it comes off before the lorry leaves, and it comes off into your driveway. Plan on filling to just under the top.

Separate the plasterboard first

One sheet found on the sorting line can get the whole skip reclassified and charged as contaminated. Ask for a separate bag, which most yards supply.

Heavy at the bottom, bulky on top

Rubble at the bottom, boards and panels flat, soft furniture last. Filling gaps as you go is worth a surprising amount, because most of a badly packed skip is the space between things.

Your figures are kept here

Everything you type is saved in this browser so the page comes back as you left it, and Start over wipes it. None of it is sent anywhere.

Common questions

What size skip do I need?
It depends on both the volume and the weight, which is why guessing from the number of bags goes wrong. Count everything into the panel and the tool works out both, then shows every size with whether the space or the weight limit is what stops you.
How many bin bags fit in a skip?
A bin bag takes up roughly 0.09 cubic metres once it is in a skip, so a two-yard mini takes about fifteen once you allow for level loading, a six-yard builders skip about forty-five, and a twelve-yard maxi about ninety. Bags settle and squash, so treat those as a floor rather than a ceiling.
Why will nobody put soil in a big skip?
Because the lorry lifts the loaded skip with a hydraulic arm and a large skip full of soil is simply beyond it. Most yards cap heavy waste at eight cubic yards, and the tool enforces the same rule rather than offering you a size you would then be refused.
Can I fill a skip above the top?
No. A skip has to be level loaded, because anything above the rim can fall off in transit and the load is not legal on the road. Overfilled skips are either emptied down by the driver on your driveway or left behind.
Do I need a permit?
If the skip stands on a public road you almost always do, and it is the hire company that applies for it on your behalf. On your own driveway or land you do not. There is a permit box in the panel so the cost lands in the comparison.
What cannot go in a skip?
Fridges and freezers, plasterboard mixed with other waste, electrical goods, tyres, paint and solvents, gas bottles, batteries and asbestos. There is a table on the page for each of them with where it should go instead, and rows matching your list are marked.
Is a skip cheaper than a man and van?
A skip is usually cheaper per cubic yard, and a clearance firm is usually cheaper overall when the waste is heavy and has to be carried down stairs, because the price includes the labour. Enter a per-yard rate and the tool prices both on the same load.
How many trips would my own car take?
Pick your vehicle in the panel and the tool divides the load by its usable capacity. Beyond about six trips most people give up and hire something, which is roughly where the arithmetic turns as well.
How accurate are the item volumes?
They are typical values for typical items, good enough to choose between a six and an eight yard skip and not good enough to fill one to the last inch. If the answer comes out close to a size boundary, the tool says so and suggests going up rather than gambling.
Does taking furniture apart really help?
A great deal. A wardrobe put in whole occupies its full outside volume and nothing else can share that space. Dismantled it is a stack of flat boards. The tool credits about two fifths of the bulky volume when you tick the box, which is conservative for anything flat-pack.